Over the years many myths have grown up around oils, from which is best for a particular make or even model, to when should oil be replaced.
It's always helpful to talk to an expert when you need to clear things up a little. For classic bike owners, Raymond McDonald is one such expert. Ray is a technical adviser with Exxon Mobil, but his full title is "Global Technical Adviser, Synthetic Passenger Car Lubricants, Exxon Mobil Lubricants and Petroleum Specialties Company, a division of Exxon Mobil Corporation."
Roughly translated, this means he knows about oil.
Ray works in a research department of Exxon Mobil testing engines and working with manufacturers on oil formulations. And when he's not working, he enjoys riding a motorcycle - a Harley.
Classic bike owners want to ensure the longevity of their machines, and all the advertising gets confusing. So I put the question to Ray: What does an owner do when faced with so much advertising and hype about oils and, even more concerning, additives?
Tackling additives first, Ray was adamant: "Do not use any additives, because they can compete with the oil producers' additives. Oil suppliers formulate a balanced mix using a base lubricant with up to 20 additives to enhance performance." Ray called this formulation "a balanced recipe of ingredients."
One of the questions that all motorcycles owners ask is how often they should change their oil. Whenever possible, Ray recommends sticking with whatever the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) called for. However, some classic bikes get ridden infrequently, and oil is not cheap. "Vintage bikes may sit around a lot, and my personal feeling is not to let the oil stand around beyond a year."
Another challenge facing classic bike owners, particularly owners of older bikes, is which grade of oil to use. The formulation of oil has changed over the years, and the oil available now is formulated very differently from, say, . "Grade is very important for these older bikes because of the bearing clearance. For example, instead of using a 10W-30, the owner should go to a 20W-50. Start on the 20/50 V Twin type oil, which is essentially a 50 weight, for older loose engines."
One final question for Ray concerned the slipping of es on motorcycles when using car oils. "The oil system for most bikes is different from cars. Bikes have a common sump, and their clutches need friction to work. In other words, clutches need a rough, grippy interface to work properly." This is why the major oil companies have formulated special oils for motorcycles with wet clutches.
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